So I'm here in Amsterdam! (this is CArl by the way). On my way to meet Annie in Nairobi. And I took her challenge to get out of the airport, get on a train, and find the red light district! Well, she didn't say that last part, but it's where I ended up. I'm not really the right kind of person for that kind of thing. I kept apologizing and looking away when some of the pros started tapping on their preview windows to get my attention. More my speed was the overwhelming amount of bikes there were downtown, the place is overrun! Oh and I thought the pack of German elementary students who'd bought Flarp right before our train ride back to the airport was funny too:)Anyway, one more flight this evening to Nairobi, then a little siesta, then Anna arrives! Can't wait! I think she's gonna love the misery mustache that I grew in her honor (for all 10 minutes that I leave this thing on my face once she sees it)Hope all is well in 'Murca. C

Last Day

So my last day at QECH was a shorter one, however I tried my best to photo and reflect on my time here as much as possible. I photoed the entrance to the hospital, the minibus stop, different parts of the hospital. It is amazing to think how nervous I was just six weeks ago, entering a world of unknowns. I managed to find my way around QECH and Blantyre, even with one leg and no car.

I spent the morning after the handover saying goodbyes, handing out thank yous and then I headed over to the Malaria research ward to see how Dr. Taylor spends her days. It was very interesting and refreshing to see how methodical and consistent they were with the patients. It just goes to show it can be done, however it is obvious that they have much more people and resources. If only the whole hospital could get research type funding, the level of care would be astounding.

In the afternoon I took what will likely be my last minibus ride, phew! Made it without a scratch (knock on wood). And then after a nice nap I joined some of my roommates at a program called Noah's Ark. It's a program for children that have lost their mothers, they pay for school, help them with schooling, feed them and give them a place to go after school. What a fun afternoon! I handed out stickers which everyone patiently waited their turn. We played with bubbles and sang songs like "If your happy and you know it.". There were the Malawi versions as well. I have video of the little kids dancing in the middle of the circle, so precious! The lady who runs the program also just happens to be from Flint! Go Michiganders!

This evening we had a lovely dinner with visitors and had good discussion, good drinks and great cookies! Thanks Simone and Liz. I had a nice long conversation with Christopher, one of the guards about the political climate in the USA and the political climate in Malawi. It was very interesting. We even discussed gay rights! Which their are none of in Malawi, homosexuality is illegal here. It was a nice discussion and I enjoyed getting to know him a little better. I feel spoiled by all of the blessings I have experienced here and will miss it all, but I just talked to Carl and I'm looking forward to seeing him in Kenya! Yay!

Minibus stop at QECH

Main theatre entrance

Malaria research ward

Last days in Blantyre

Hamilton took us one last time to Tidzalaranga, the club for children with disabilities. I met a girl named Shakira, we made Easter cards together and hung out and took pictures. I sang her Waka Waka Africa which cracked a smile (a Shakira song). She is a hemiplegic on the left, meaning paralyzed just on one side of her body. A sad reality of many children who suffer from the effects of cerebral malaria or pediatric meningitis. But her smile was full and her spirit strong. My friend from last time who has lost the use of his legs below the knee wanted to see my leg. He pointed from one to the other between my prosthetic and my natural leg. He was very interested, but unfortunately my Chichewa was not good enough to explain very well. He got the gist I think from pantomime and gestures. Loveless was there, with her older brother Spencer. He spoke good English and was patient and took good care of his sister. It is so nice to see the camaraderie of all the kids. They seemed so comfortable in their skin. It was inspiring for me, who often feels sorry for myself or has lost confidence since my own acquisition of a disability. If these poor children, some of whom are carried around by their mothers because they have no other means of ambulation, can be so pure and happy in their skin and the body they were dealt, then I have nothing to complain about or hold me back. It is truly inspiring and I hope I can continue to support Tidzalaranga from afar.

I had an MRI today. Dr. Taylor asked us to and then get one once back at MSU so that they can get their settings right. It brought back many memories of my challenges with tumors in the past and I was praying the whole time that they didn't discover some incidental finding because I have never gotten a brain scan before. The machine, although in Malawi, is very much the same with loud noises I can only equate to a mix somewhere between a machine gun and the driving synthy back beats of an 80s pop song. But in Malawi there are no ear plugs. I can imagine if you are from a small village and you get referred here for an MRI how you could think that bad spirits were in their or that it was doing something weird to you. They really need to figure out a way to play relaxing music during those intervals instead of banging noises, get on that GE!

Then I took a minibus to go to the metro (a grocery store) and the tropex gift shop. So...metro was closed, so then I walked the 100 meters or so to the shop (in the rain) and it was also closed!!! That is one thing about African business hours that I can't get used to...they have posted business hours, but whether or not they observe them on any given day, that is another story. I guess it's Karma saying I have purchased enough gifts or something. So I called a taxi so I didn't have to walk in the rain, and then the sun came out. What is up? That is okay though because the whole time there was a beautiful rainbow over Ndirande (one of Blantyre's mountains). It was a nice way to see Blantyre in my last days here.

Why not to walk on the gutters

A beautiful paper flower tree I thought my mom would like

Tiya and I, she's the pediatric surgery resident, sure nice

Last Weekend in Blantyre

This weekend, being our last in Malawi we decided to stay in Blantyre. It has been quite fun to act as a (somewhat) local and do things around town. Friday evening after dinner we went out to a bar called the Blue Elephant. I saw one of the nice Interns there and was feeling cool that I ran into someone that I knew.

Saturday some of the group went to the tea estates while I opted to really stay in Blantyre. After a lazy morning (which was absolutely wonderful) we walked to Lambats, saw Dr. Ntoto on the street getting some pants altered and got more fabric for a few last minute projects from Lawrence. Then we went up to the Kurios market where they sell all of the crafts and souvenir type stuff. Those guys are very pushy and even though you say you are just looking they want to show you everything. Apparently though I am a really good haggler because one guy gave me some stuff for free! I feel bad but I guess that is his technique. I got some cute stuff though. Thanks David and Derek and Happiness.

Then we had a small lunch at Veg Delight, and Liz and I headed over to Open Arms, a 0-2yr old orphanage where we just stay and played with the babies. It's appropriately named because the toddlers will wobble over to you and then with their arms out above their heads they will fall onto you. So cute. But nothing like spending an afternoon with 24 toddlers to exhaust you and make you think you need a bit more time before having kids of your own. Luckily I never plan to have 24 of them!!! But they were darling and I fell in love with a few of them.

Saturday evening we went to a fancy restaurant called La Haustatria or something. The food was pretty good but I think the Italians in Zomba were better. On returning home from the restaurant I remembered another thing that I will miss from Malawi: the beautiful fragrance of the night rose. I don't know if that's really what it's called...but it is a beautiful scent.

Sunday morning was filled with Ang's cinnamon rolls (Mmm) and then she joined me for church. We called Lawrence the taxi man and he sent Terrance to help us find where Galilea is without Kara this time. After a few turns that I knew for sure I began to grow weary but then we saw a beat up sign with the cross and flames and knew we were on the right track. Little did I know the church is off the city map! But we found it and were welcomed with "Anna!" as Esther, the pastor's wife recognized me and welcomed us back. I was amazed that she remembered my name as it was a whole month ago that we met! Again, what a blessing church with them was. So much joy and faith and praise and song! I got some great recordings I plan to share once I have faster Internet (aka, once I get home). We spoke the apostles creed in Chichewa and noticed a familiar tune to one of the songs and then I realized it was The Old Rugged Cross (and secretly thought to myself, with all the amazing African hymns--this is our gift of song to them????).

The afternoon was spent relaxing, reading on the porch, listening and watching the rain and Dana made everyone Latkas! Yumm! What a delightful weekend it was. And in other big news, Ethyl--our chicken, has hatched five baby chicks! So cute!

Mom with chick

The Old Rugged Cross

Apostles Creed in Chichewa

Winding down

As we are nearing the end of our six week adventure I am starting to compile a list of things that I will miss.

I'll miss...

That everyone looks at you and smiles or gives a what's up head tilt (the Malawi nod with eyebrow raising) as you walk by.
The colorful satenjes (fabric wraps) on all the women.
The babies strapped to women's backs that you don't notice they are there till they go passed.
The samosa lady.
Sleeping with the windows open.
Babies whose pants are too big so their butt peeks out of the top.
Samosas.
Simone's peanut butter cookies and ratatouille.
Having dinner made for us every night of the week.
Seeing crazy wildlife on the walk home, and elsewhere.
The giant avacados and other produce.
Children waving as we go by in the car.
The accents of Africans speaking English.
The beautiful mountains surrounding Blantyre.
The rooster's wake up call.
Riding minibuses with chickens.
The duck outside that sounds just like the iPhone duck ringtone.
The exercise I get just walking around the hospital.
The African sense of time (no worries).
The steady hours of sunlight 5:30a-6:15p.
The ingenuity of people who are used to making do with less.
The amazing feats of strength of both men and women, and what one person can carry on their head.
Artists, carvers, tailors, street musicians...
Fancy English versions of the same words (theatre=O.R., knock off=leave for the day, straight away=right away...)
Cane sugar coca-cola (good thing we live right near Mexican town so it is easily accessible.)
Pineapple Fanta (not as accessible).
The spirit that everyone is responsible for everyone else (picking up friends or strangers to give them rides, helping people out of the gutter they fell in, taking care of babies that aren't yours).
Sun every day (at least for part of it).

Sleeping with a bed net and feeling a bit like a princess.
Walking home from the hospital and how people just start walking with you and chatting about their lives with you.
Hamilton, the carver.

Lawrence, the tailor and his 7am visits (I got a lot of good stuff!!)
The greenness of everything.
Life in Africa.

I can honestly say as I was on the walk home today I got a little down, I realized how much I have enjoyed life here and how much I will miss it. That means I must come back!

Part of the walk to QECH

The mural just outside the house gate here.

Amazing feats of strength, in the rain no less!

Lawrence's Obama shirt, he went all the way to Limbe to find me this material!

Steve and the other chicken (I forget her name)

The gecko I saw on my walk home one day

Downtown Blantyre with either Michiru or Ndirandi in the background. There is a yearly race called three peaks where people run up and down all three of Blantyre's mountains in one day!!! It's like a 26.9 mile run plus you are going vertically pretty much the whole time...crazy.

One of the "hallways" at the hospital.

QECH is BYOB, bring your own bedding...and it's here laying out to dry.

The walkway to the hospital.

Bed nets

Race and Peace

Today I road the minibus to work and whoa-- it was a good one. All of the upholstery was ripped up, two of the foldable seat backs were broken off and it wasn't until 75% of the way there that I realized all of the indication lights (engine, oil, battery, heat, etc...) were on. The car was also super loud! The lady sitting next to me was saying something in Chichewa that I am sure we were both making fun of the state of the vehicle. We laughed together. I guess that is why some of them say "Fear God" on the back bumper. On the road I also saw a guy with a Michigan State Spartans tshirt on, which is fun!

As much as most everyone is really a good and nice person, I have noticed that Malawi's race relations feel like that of 1970s USA. I have been noticing this more and more. The whites and ex-pats have the money for the most part, and the black Africans don't. They also get treated differently. At the hospital, if you are white, you can walk through pretty much any door without any questions asked, while black Malawians get stopped and questioned about why they need to get through and often turned away. When I was at the soccer game one guy walking passed yelled "Azungu, go over there!" obviously pointing toward the expensive seats. It seemed very apparent by the surprise and range of reception that I got that the Mzungus don't go to the game on that side. Even in the minibuses because I am a white girl they often direct me to the front seat as if I somehow deserve it, I know they are just being nice but... It's strange too because a lot of the folks that are perpetuating these barriers are of the same color as the suppressed. Like the guards at the hospital doors who let me through but then question all the others, the guard is a black African as well.

This afternoon was a super refreshing experience as I and three of my cohorts went to Tidzalerana, which is Blantyre's club for children and families of people with disabilities. We also got to see the Tidzalerana home which is a permanent home for adults with disability. It was great, we came in to the place to find a lecture to the mom's about how they can enroll their children in a daily morning program through a government/school program (or maybe it was another NGO). Then we helped the children with spasticity stretch out on the yoga balls, and also have fun bouncing as well. Yvette and Liz were in the back doing crafts and reading stories to some of the older children. Liz made friends with this beautiful little girl named Loveness.

Loveness looks to be about 4 or 5. She is deaf, so I immediately fell in love with her and tried to tell her she was pretty (with ASL). She has no signs and I am not sure if there is sign language in Malawi, other than what people make up to communicate the basics. So she and another boy whose name I didn't catch were deaf and so smart and cute and...I think I have found were best I can help Malawi.

I gave Pastor Mike, a Canadian Presbyterian minister my email, he sends out a newsletter about Tidzalerana he may add me to. I hope he does because this program is near and dear to my heart and am so glad I got the opportunity to see what they are doing. It may be one of the few in its kind in Malawi but it is a gem.

The program was held in a church in the part of Blantyre called Ndirande. Ndirande is much more what you picture when you think of African neighborhoods. It is poor, very condensed, lots of people and kids out walking, and they were surprised to see Mzungus around. It was a refreshing change from the guarded walls we live in, in the same neighborhood as the VP of Malawi (needless to say, it's RICH). It is nice to go and be in a place that it feels like your presence and your gifts may really be appreciated and badly needed.

Kids outside the car laughing as we sang their names in the name song "Vanessa-essa Bo Bessa..."

This is Loveness, I have a few more of her cuz she was so adorable!!!

Zomba

A beautiful weekend destination. It is a plateau overlooking much of the southern region of Malawi. You can see a smaller lake just south of lake Malawi as well as Mulanje Massif, the mountain my friends climbed the weekend I opted to stay home. And from the looks of it from here, that was a VERY good decision. Most of the time you cannot see Mulanje because the clouds are covering it. But Saturday afternoon it popped out to say hello and we snapped a few good pics.

Saturday we drove up to the lookout and it was breathtaking and the mix of warm and cool breezes felt so good on your skin. The car was not 4x4 but somehow we made it, thanks to Tomondoni's excellent driving skills. After that we came down to the fanciest hotel I've seen in Malawi for lunch. They were having a Birthday party for some Christian bishop and everyone was dressed to the nines. Underdressed as we were, we sat outside and chilled and ate our food and it was lovely.

After a long lunch we set out on a walk, it ended up being longer than I thought but we made it to Williams Falls with the help of some locals, Bernard and Ephraim. I was excited to tell Ephraim that I had a friend who was his namesake in Detroit. They also sold us some of their crystals which are harvested from one of the Zomba peaks. I gave in to their good salesmen-ship and bought a big rose quartz for about 2 bucks. It reminded me of a necklace my nanny gave me when I was little.

After that we came back to our hotel and sat on the veranda and drank and ate and talked. Casa Rossa is a newly renovated house by an Italian couple so that means great coffee and great cuisine. Everyone tried the gnocchi and/or pesto which was a greatly appreciated departure from Nsima (maize meal) and beans. The couple owns a big Mastiff named Paulo, who apparently is only six months old as I realized his puppiness when I sat on the porch and he nuzzled and wrestled with me. It's nice to have some big dog time and makes me miss Moose.

Sunday was spent sitting on the veranda and slowly watching the clouds and fog lift over the beautiful view, while also reading and just enjoying doing nothing at all. The president of Malawi is visiting Zomba today and you can hear the party down in the village to celebrate his visit. I thought of visiting to see what was going on but then thought better of it with all of the political unrest. So sitting on the porch and looking forward to a yummy Italian lunch sounds much more peaceful. I'll just continue to listen to the party from a safe distance:)

Having a husband who sings, writes and records music is such a blessing because when I am missing him I can turn on an album of his and then I feel as though I am sharing this time with him. Or that he is here with me.

It is getting to the point in the trip where everyone is starting to miss the comforts and luxuries of home. The conversation keeps coming up what meals to have, places to go, beers to drink, etc...once we get home. I keep having to remind myself to stay here in the moment because it continues to be amazing that I have been given such an extraordinary opportunity and that here I am, in Africa.

On our way back home, we drove by Kamuzu Stadium where people were lining up for a game. Red and White (The Bullets) vs. Blue and White (unknown mascot), so I went and cheered The Bullets since I at least knew their mascot. I was adopted by two girls who must've known I needed a friend. They put me seated in between the two of them after an old drunk man was hitting on me, and didn't believe that I was married. They pointed out the team's star player #2 and were very gracious. I saw a man fall into a gutter out of sight, and then the folks around helped him out and he was fine and walked away. The nice girls walked me to the exit when I had had enough excitement and I got on the bus home.

They must know they overfill minibuses on game day because we got stopped by the police for over capacity so I hopped out and walked the mile that was left to home. On the walk I met a nice man who works across the street from our house and has 8 kids, 6 of which are college educated. 4 with masters degrees One of his sons works at the US embassy in Lilongwe and said he has traveled to Michigan before. It was a peaceful walk back and I am glad I left before the end of the game because it sounds like chaos outside, celebrating, but chaotically. I want to thank Ethyl and her friend for adopting me at the game and taking care of me, the Azungu in a Malawian world.

Peds Sgx

When someone dies at QECH, all of the women in the family/friends come to the ward and begin singing beautifully sad sounding African harmonies. When they finish preparing the body in cheese cloth, they roll them out and through the center hallway of the hospital, all of the women following and singing. It is respectful to stop as the procession goes by. I had my first encounter with one of these yesterday on my way to the Theatre. I caught myself almost to tears, as it had already been an emotional day. But I was touched by how beautiful it was as well.

In the USA, we hide this period of time, have back hallways and elevators so that no one has to look death in the face. We continue to go on thinking we are invincible, while death is never far. I know death at all ages is an even sharper reality in many African countries, as the infant mortality rate and accident and disease of the young is more common, but I think the way they approach death when it comes may be healthier for the psyche in the long run.

This morning I traveled with Dr Lebbi and Prof. Borgstein to the special care nursery where four babies share a warmer. The new Peds surgeon Bip Nandi says they may spread infection but at least they won't get lonely.

I am beginning to rely on the Samosa lady who comes to the surgical theatre daily around 11am, very yummy. I want to get a recipe for them at home, for special occasions that is because I know deep fried meat pockets are not recommended by nutritionists. Neither is a daily coca-cola but I give myself some leeway when I am away from home. Plus the soda is made with cane sugar so its super yummy!

I've caught myself a couple of times using the very Malawian affirmation of "Mmm.". Our guide on safari used it and many others I have noticed doing it. Now I have started without even thinking of it. I will ask someone a question, then getting an answer I find myself nodding "Mmm".

They ventilate the babies in surgery by hand, one CRNA dedicated solely to squeezing the bag. A lot of responsibility for one person, but then that's medicine.

Ward rounds on peds surgery is very interesting. But for the most part I tried to see how many little ones I could smile at and get one in return. I'm at almost 100%. They are so adorable!

The giant snail I saw

Special care nursery, 4 to a warmer

This love/hate relationship

There are many things I love and others I dislike about Africa. I figured I would list them to help organize my thoughts.

Love: not needing heat or AC in your house.
Hate: being drenched in sweat as soon as you walk outside.

Love: all of the wildlife
Hate: sharing my shower or bed with the wildlife

Love: the pace of life
Hate: when the pace of life interferes with the best laid plans

Love: how people wave and children smile to see you
Hate: how many of the children have bloated bellies indicating malnutrition and put there hands out asking for money (which they do need)

Love: the scenery
Hate: how long it takes to make it from point a to point b, but at least the scenery is nice.

Love: that everyone walks as their primary mode of transportation
Hate: that you cannot walk at night because a few wayward bandits ruin it for everyone else

Love: that people are trying hard to offer good healthcare to the people of Malawi
Hate: that it so often falls short

Love: The Samosa lady who comes to sell her yummy food around 11 every day in the Main Theatre staff lounge
Hate: being indoors 7:30a-4pm while in Africa.

Love: the deep rich accents
Hate: having to ask 2-4 times what a person said even tho it's in English, I feel dumb

Love: riding the minibus to work
Hate: riding the minibus to work

Love: living in Africa
Hate: being away from Carl and home for this long

Biblical Africa and Safari

Driving through Malawi to Zambia and seeing all of the people has given me some thoughts. It is no wonder that one of the only places the church is growing is in Africa. When you think of biblical stories it makes sense that the people of Africa can relate more closely. The professions in the bible, carpenter, shepherd and problems of the bible, thousands of people wondering how they are going to have enough food, the use of actual Yokes are all around in Africa. It is no wonder the stories make sense here.

In passing by towns and markets you will see many little booths of second hand clothing, shoes, English textbooks and such. It is obvious that this stuff didn't originate in Africa. They have U of Kentucky sweatshirts, Bulls jerseys and other hand me downs. I was told that much of the stuff is donated by organizations in thoughts that it would be given out for free. So somewhere along the way it got caught up in a commerce scheme. I can't tell if this is good or bad. On the one hand, it is allowing for more trade and money exchange than a handout would, but...

At the Zambian border they were handing out condoms through the Zambian Health Department. That is the first place in Africa I have seen free condoms, good job Zambia. Way to keep your people safe:)

Part of the road to South Luangwa was very modern with even painted lines, but the other part was being built so we had to travel on the "deviation" which was just a little dirt road they had made on either side of the actual road. It felt like we were driving through people's back yards at times. It is amazing what one can carry on their head, or even better, on a bike! And near our lunch stop there was a field of wild orange gerbara daisies, which are my favorite. Beautiful.

And now we have arrived at our camp, Trek and Trail camp at South Luangwa National Park. It is awesome, and rustic. We share the camp with a pack of baboons, are in tents (but we have beds and bedding) and at night we must be escorted to the Ablution by a guard in case we were to run into any hippos or elephants. Apparently that happens more in the dry season when food is more scarce, but still! And you can hear the hippos in the river not 50 feet from our tent. They have a funny low laugh sound that they make that Malawians say it sounds like "Mvuu! MMvUUU!" This is cool, much more in the thick of it than other Safari's that I've been on. So we'll be up and at it at 5am for our first game drive in the morning.

Friday, I woke up to Yvette returning from the restroom saying "there was a hippo!" Apparently it walked right by our tents as well, and I'm the only one who slept through it! Darn, but there were plenty to see once we were off. We were up early for banana crepes and toast. Then were met at the park gate by a pack of Baboons. We saw hippos, crocs, all kinds of birds, Zebras, buffalo, water buck, impala, and an old lonely male giraffe. It was awesome. And we even got out by the river for a cup of coffee and biscuits. After we got back it was a very chill afternoon with reading and chatting by the pool, playing some bawa, lunch and overall relaxation. Liz's quote of the week was "I can't believe we are getting credit for this." After tea at 3:30 we are back in the park at 4pm for an evening drive.

The evening turned out to be interesting with warthogs, more elephants, hyenas, birds, zebras and a lion that we didn't see but could definitely hear. It was a bit scary, turning the engine off in the dark and listening, then moving toward the sound of it. We never caught up with them though. And then it was back to camp-- but we saw lots of hippos on the road on our way there. So I didn't get to see the one outside our tent but I got to see plenty all the same.

Saturday within 30 minutes of entering the park we came upon a male lion. We stalked him for about 30-45 min. And even heard him roar. Our guide Moses said he was looking for the female pride. It was awesome. After we saw lots more giraffe, warthogs, hippos, etc... It was a lovely clear morning. Another lazy afternoon with naps and swimming and then off to the park again! Last time this round!

The evening ride we saw the lion again and some giraffes and others, but no leopard, wah wah. Oh well, next time. When we got back to camp for dinner Liz and Ang as well as Jeff and Dana noticed something in their tents was askew. Apparently the baboons had broken into the tent to search for food...nothing stolen, but a few broken items. Jeff was none too happy about this!

And now it's time to head back to Malawi. Goodnight. Zikomo Zambia.

The mess hall, hippos and crocs in these waters!

Our "tent" accomodations