The Three Legged Race: Cape Maclear

This weekend was crazy and fun. Friday morning was filled with the first day I needed an alarm (thank goodness) as well as a visit with Lawrence the Tailor. He's making me some pants and a satchel out of beautiful African fabric, if you have any requests please let me know!

Then it was off to the hospital for a quick trip. I went out to the location where I was instructed to catch the minibus and wasn't there but two minutes before a car pulled over and a man who look oddly like Iddi Amine (sp?) was like "I saw you yesterday at morning handover, you need a ride to the hospital?" So my dangerdar was a little elevated but he seemed to be saying things that no one else would know to say. Turns out he is an Ortho registrar (resident) at the hospital who happens to be from Zimbabwe. He gave me, along with a man with a chicken a ride to the hospital. No problems. And we even went the back way so it was right near morning handover, hardly any walking.

After a shorter day at the hospital where I got to see the ER which here is called E & A, I disappeared to home to catch our car to the Lake. It is funny because in Michigan a drive up north to our lake destination is about the same drive 4-4.5 hrs. But the drive gave me such an amazing opportunity to take in the countryside. We drove down from the mountains around Blantyre into a much flatter part of the country. We passed grass huts, villages with open markets, termite mounds, thatched huts "football" games, bicycle taxis, lots of goats and cows and lots of maize. It looked like a crazy combo of Hawaii, Iowa and maybe the Appalachian mts. With some adjustments. It's amazing what one can balance with on a bike! Even the smallest of villages had at least one stand where they sold minutes for your phone and coca-colas. There was one town with a wooden, hand painted sign that said "Toys 'R' Us." we all had to laugh.

We even stopped in Lowonde to pee and found a flush toilet with TP! That's high society guys!

As we narrowed in on our destination, the mountains seemed to be right in front of us and I had no idea how we'd get through, but we turned down a dirt road and so gracefully the mountains parted in front of us to lead us to the beautiful town of Cape Maclear. The Lake is divinely beautiful, out of a dream sequence. As we are laying down our heads the children are still playing games outside our walls. They sound so happy. Sleep now. Peace.

Just kidding, because after about an hour of sleep our bed became infested with Ants. Liz and I talked to the worker who then gave us a new room (upgrade) for the night.

Then on Saturday we woke up early to see the colors of the sunrise over Lake Malawi. After some photographs and a hammock nap, we took a boat to the closest island for a snorkel and some bird watching. The water is freshwater but warm with bright colored fish, almost tropical reef-like!

In the afternoon I took a walk through the town and found a cute little shop with jewelry and bawa boards, the official board game of Malawi. Mac, the shop owner taught me the rules and said " Yes, teaching is free." I bought a few gifts from him since he was so generous with his time. And now that I taught him, Jeff is an avid Bawa player.

Before dinner we took a walk over to Hiccups Bar where we had the pleasure of a real Malawian jug band setting up right out front. The bass was a jug, and homemade drums and guitar. I got some of their song on film. Wished Carl was here to see that one!

On Sunday morning we spent more time in hammocks and then Jeff, Yvette , Liz and I rented tandem kayaks and explored the lake a bit. We went out to this channel between the mainland and a close island that I thought looked like something out of a movie.

I also met the owner of the Gecko Lodge (a very nice place despite ants) who is in a wheelchair! He's a British ex-pat and came out here to help the community and provide lodging for visitors. He has done a clean water project for the area, among other good things. I like his style.

When we got back and cleaned up it was nearly time to leave so we packed up and were waiting for our driver Tamandani, who was late, after 30 minutes Yvette called him and we found out HE HAD LOST THE KEYS!!!! As we were waiting, frantically trying to set up a plan B but also trying not to be alarmed, after about 45 minutes of figuring out possible other arrangements he was in the lake and came up from a dive with keys in hand. Phew! That worked out to be the best Plan B possible. So off to home away from home!